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Port Said

Out Stealing Horses

Port Said is the first African port Jon encounters on a voyage that carries him from Marseilles through the Mediterranean and onward toward the Red Sea. To the fifteen-year-old sailor, it is a place of vivid sensory overwhelm: palms, flat roofs, bazaars, clamorous voices, unfamiliar smells, and the crowded life of the quay. Yet he never steps ashore. The port becomes both a threshold into a world he has not known and the limit of what he is willing to face there.

Arrival and the route south

Jon approaches Port Said aboard the M/S Tijuka, coming from Marseilles. Lars follows the ship’s progress in an atlas, tracing its route past Sicily and the tip of Italy, then diagonally past the Greek islands. Southeast of Crete, the air changes; Jon does not yet realize that Africa is near. At Port Said, he sees his first African palm beneath a low, intensely blue sky. From Port Said the voyage is to continue through the Suez Canal, with desert on both sides for long stretches, then down the Red Sea to Djibouti and Aden. The route is a passage between worlds, but the narrative distinguishes the line on Lars’s map from Jon’s experience aboard ship: Lars can follow the ship’s course with his finger, while Jon confronts each new place through what he sees, hears, and smells.

The port as Jon sees it

Jon’s first view of Port Said gathers the town around the ship. Flat roofs rise above bazaars and markets that seem to fill every street, the wharfs, and the quay beside the M/S Tijuka. Voices call out in different languages, urging those aboard to come down the gangway and buy. The bustle is bewildering and deafening; cymbals and kettledrums mingle with the shouting, while the smells of overripe vegetables, unfamiliar meat, spices, herbs, and something burning unsettle him. He can glimpse the fire at the far end of the quay but does not know what is being burned. The port changes character after dark. In daylight its markets and calls are garish and overwhelming; at night, electric and other lights soften the activity, making it seem more alluring but also more sinister. Flickering shadows and narrow alleyways replace the exposed tumult of the day. The contrast does not make Jon more willing to explore: the town’s nighttime appeal carries its own unease.

Refusal to go ashore and the atlas at home

Jon stays aboard. He continues his cargo work with youthful strength, but he does not descend the gangway during his time off or any other watch. When darkness falls, he remains on deck and watches the town from the ship. He is fifteen, and Port Said is not an isolated exception: he also does not go ashore in Aden or Djibouti. The narrative records the refusal plainly, setting the scale of the unfamiliar world against the narrow boundary Jon maintains between ship and shore. Lars’s knowledge of the voyage is different in kind. He remembers the towns and harbours Jon visited, what was printed on the envelopes sent home, and the names of the ships Jon signed on and off. He follows the routes in an atlas, accompanying his brother’s travels at the kitchen table in the house by the river. The novel’s account moves between that domestic act of tracing and Jon’s bodily experience of the port; Lars can map the passage, but the atlas cannot reproduce the noise, smells, or apprehension of standing aboard the ship.

Narrative significance

Port Said marks a geographical threshold in the voyage and a limit in Jon’s encounter with it. The narration widens the route beyond the young sailor’s immediate understanding by placing it in a longer history: it associates the passage through the region with Rimbaud, who sailed there nearly seventy years earlier in an effort to leave his former life behind. Jon does not know this history, nor does Lars as he studies the atlas; it is supplied by the narrator, who has read about Rimbaud. That difference in knowledge gives the sea journey more than one perspective without changing what Jon does: he sees the port, remains aboard, and continues on toward the next stop.